Where in the world can you experience towering alps, castles seemingly hanging in mid-air, a mystical mountainous spirit, bubbling hot pots from the center of the earth, and finish off the day at a world class Mediterranean restaurant, all within a day’s drive from each other?

Hugging unusual frontiers, we’re edging out excitement, we’re going down onto parts unknown, just south of the California / Oregon border. Looking a little deeper into the folds and forests of Northern California, we’re uncovering opportunities that travelers hurriedly pass over, and guessing, if Oregon and California gave birth, it would be a waterfall.

Downtown Dunsmuir, photo by cswtwo (CC BY-NC-SA 2.0)

Dunsmuir CA: From Micro to Medi

Hidden in the twisty mountainous curves of the northern California stretch of I-5, Dunsmuir is a frequent fly-by, but it is definitely worth a pause. A tourist hub for the intrepid, Dunsmuir is a gateway that will appeal to relaxed water-walkers and outward-bounding backpackers alike, and it relishes in a remarkable Mediterranean bistro.

The city of Dunsmuir, the “home of the best water on earth,” (sourced from natural springs) is built along the Sacramento River and has a rustic somewhat charm. Its unique advantage is the variety of outdoor adventures nearby – from glistening shrouds of water, teetering towers of granite, and trails that are sublime to stunning. After exploring some of the inexhaustible nearby options, book a night at the Railroad Park Resort, where you can bed for the night in vintage cabooses.

After a day of hiking, stop at the Dunsmuir Brewery Works, a micro-brewery with solid brewpub dishes. But finding a fine dining experience in Dunsmuir is unexpected! Café Maddalena has an aware enthusiastic following, book in advance, and for good reason. This Mediterranean bistro’s seasonal approach is fresh and exquisitely prepared.

Hedge Creek Falls

Hedge Creek Falls, Ilya.osipov, CC BY 4

Waterfall trailheads are in abundance around Dunsmuir. Roughly 2.5 miles north of Dunsmuir on I-5, Hedge Creek Falls trail has a designated offramp. It’s easy access off I-5 makes this a popular stop, and for good reason. The hike to the falls is less than a mile, with an elevation gain of only 200 feet which ends in a 35-foot freefall plunge that you can walk behind. A prefect rest break on a stretch of I-5 aptly named The Cascade Wonderland Highway.  

Mossbrae Falls

Mossbrae Falls, by Elijah Hiett via Unsplash

One of the most scenic waterfalls in California, Mossbrae Falls, is located close to downtown Dunsmuir, although accessibility is very limited, actually, accessibility is illegal at this point. But for waterfall lovers, and hopefully the hyper-aware, there is access via an active Union Pacific railroad track. That’s the locals preferred path to this popular fall. But remember, it is an illegal access route! Care and caution are required if exploring this sublime cascade that drops into the Sacramento River. Plans are afoot to extend the Hedge Creek Falls trail to Mossbrae Falls.

Castles in the Air, Feather Canyons Everywhere

Castle Crag State Park

Jutting granite spires at 6,000-foot elevation are majestic in every sense of the word as they finger into the sky in the Castle Crag Wilderness area within Castle Crag State Park. The state park offers hook-ups and camping sites, and the wilderness area contains a stretch of the Pacific Crest Trail. There are 28 miles of hiking trails from easily accessible viewpoints to strenuous climbs up to Castle Dome among others, which end in breathtaking views of Mount Shasta to the east, and panoramic views south-westward.

Sawtooth Mountain, Canyon Creek Lake / Steven Bratman from Denver, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Alpine Glows and Pristine Lakes

Hidden glaciers and crystal clear lakes thrill hikers entering the Trinity Alps Wilderness area which is located within the Shasta-Trinity National Forest. Entrance is usually out of Weaverville, (on a picturesque loop via Hwy 3 south from Yreka, or Hwy 299 west from Redding) and the drive is worth it. A caveat for exploring the Alps (and all California wilderness areas) is to make sure trails and lake are open because of recent major forest fires. Check with the Forest Service for updates.

After your pristine wilderness experience, return to Weaverville to enjoy a crafty pint, solid pub grub, and lively conversations with other backcountry explorers at the Trinity County Brewing Company. After your fill, visit the Weaverville Josh House State Park which includes the Taoist Temple of the Forest Beneath the Clouds. This is the oldest continuously used Chinese temple in California and houses Chinese mining tools from the 1854 gold rush era, wrought-iron Tong War weaponry, and a spectacularly ornate alter.

Mt. Shasta Things to Do

Mt. Shasta, Little Mountain 5, CC BY-SA

Mt. Shasta, a spiritual power center of legend and lore, is both mystical and majestic. At 14,179 feet, the second highest mountain in the Cascades Range after Mt. Rainier, Shasta’s girth fills the horizon, and the imagination, with its massive size. Indeed, Mt. Shasta is the most voluminous volcano in the Cascades and is known for attracting spiritual devotees of many faiths.

Klamath Tribe lore deems Mount Shasta is inhabited by the Spirit of the Above-World, Skell, who threw hot rocks and lava and battled with the Spirit of the Below-World, Lloa, symbolized by Mt. Mazama. Other legends include a hidden city of advanced beings from the lost continent of Lemuria. And believers of the Harmonic Convergence attribute Shasta as a global center with special pulsating powers. All this to say, Mt. Shasta is a gem of a place.

Gemstones, Trails, & Picnic Goodies: Mt Shasta City 

Driving through Mt. Shasta City, you get the feeling that people are ‘centered’ here. Downtown vibes with an enigmatic hum befitting the namesake mountain’s spiritual specialness. A larger than expected outdoor Monday market greets you in the center of town, along with shops selling gemstones forged with healing powers, vintage antiques, and throwback taverns with pressed-tin ceilings. The mountain reveals over the city like a benevolent being beckoning you to get it up.

The Mount Shasta Trail Association points you to a myriad of outdoor opportunities starting from the city center or around the mountain’s wide flanks. Inns and motels are found throughout the town, or you can splurge and book a chalet at the Mount Shasta Resort which includes a 18-hole golf course and has views of Lake Siskiyou.

McCloud to Burney, Ride, Glide, and Come Alive!

Burney Falls, Steven Bratman from Denver, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Traversing east on Highway 89 under the southern skirt of Mt. Shasta is the bottom stretch of the stunningly beautiful 500-mile Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway which connects Cascade Range volcanoes from Crater Lake to Mt. Lassen National Parks. Bucolic McCloud awaits to inspire you with a plethora of waterfalls, family friendly lakes, and a long, lovely bike trail.

The Great Shasta Rail Trail is a converted railbed, currently there’s 40-miles completed, that rides from just east of McCloud at the Pilgrim trailhead to Barlett Gap or you can take a spur to Hambone. Carved through a canyon of basalt lava rock, the McCloud River Trail is a four-mile loop that delights as it passes three distinct waterfalls, Lower Falls is perfect for a post-hike dip, the Middle Falls has a spectacular 50-foot drop, and the Upper Falls provides a suitably scenic stop before heading back.

McArthur-Burney Memorial State Park has reportedly one of the most beautiful cascades; the 129-foot Burney Falls, which is fed by large natural springs that flow with one hundred million gallons of water a day! That is quite a statement in a state of outrageously beautiful waterfalls, which also creates large crowds, especially on weekends, with a very limited parking area. This is also a great place to camp.

Lassen Volcanic National Park: Uncrowded and Fired Up!

Bumpass Hell, Tobias Haase from Hanover, Germany, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Surprising visitors making their way to the southernmost volcano in the Cascade Range, Lassen Volcanic National Park is gloriously under-visited. While Mt. Lassen is the last volcano to erupt (1914-1921) in the Pacific Northwest before Mount St. Helens blew it’s top in 1980, it is still boiling with bubbling mud pots, venting fumaroles, and steaming hot springs.

One of the most popular attractions of Lassen is Bumpass Hell Trail. This easy to moderate all-ages three-mile two-hour round-trip hike (elevation gain from 8,200 to 8,400 ft) provides access to the maximum geothermal area in the park along with a 360-degree view of the Lassen basin. Because of the elevation, the trail is only open during summer and fall as Lassen gets upwards of 40-foot snowbanks during winter. Some call this park “Little Yellowstone” because it is smelly, seductively stunning, and striated with geological history.

Camping in Lassen Volcanic National Park

There are seven campgrounds within the park, unfortunately, three are closed due to the 2021 Dixie Fire recovery efforts. Other options near the park are in surrounding communities. Book before arriving, availabilities are limited.

*This post was brought to you by my fabulous friend, John Schoppert, a resident of Ashland, Oregon and all around Northern California explorer!